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When I started beta testing Star Wars Galaxies, a little over eight months ago, I had a MMORPG background of playing a lot of solo characters. Lone-wolf types. Slowly, but surely, SWG turned me from my old ways.

This guide is far from comprehensive. These are just a few observations I�ve made along the way. I hope it is helpful to you. Also, I encourage you to read as many different guides as possible. There are many different ways to run a group. My method is much more brawler centric than others, but you can run a group just fine without brawlers. Nothing is gospel. Fine what works best for you and your group.

First we must address the obvious question: Why group at all? What are the benefits?

Grouping has a number of benefits that, in my mind, far outweigh solo play. You must be grouped to teach others. Groups have access to groupspeak, which is literally a personal chat room for your group. Groups have a much easier time fighting tougher opponents. Groups overall receive many times more combat experience (this is not just because groups can take down bigger enemies; there actually is a grouping multiplier to experience). Grouping is an efficient way to learn many other skills non-related to combat. Lastly, grouping is just plain fun to a lot of people.

Please keep in mind that this is not to say that solo play is inferior or undesirable. You can solo just fine, but keep in mind that solo players tend to advance much slower than grouped players, overall.

Pre-Group

Finding a Group

Your first task to become a grouping god is to fine a group with which to work. There are a number of ways to do this. Try to take your character to the most popular cities on a planet, then find the most popular areas of that city. Usual locations are the cantinas, hospitals, and the spaceports where new travelers arrive on the planet.

If you see a two or three people running closely together, chances are they are in a group. Jot down the name of one of them and send a /tell asking if you can join.

Can�t find any existing groups after a bit of looking? Then it�s time to take matters into your own hands and form a group yourself.

First, try the street method. Stand in the middle of a popular area and tell everyone that you are forming/looking for a group. Use the yelling commands so that a wide area of people can hear you. Just don�t overuse /yell and /shout, it looks newbish. Try to use /announce and /bellow more.

Be specific and add detail to your group announcements. If you are open to everyone, say so. If you are looking for medics and surveyors, say so. If your plan is to run to Jabba�s or hunt Sharnaffs or have everyone get two destroy missions to the north� say so. As a group organizer you are, for lack of a better term, selling the group experience to everyone around. Anybody can /yell �Forming up a group, come join NOW!!,� and anybody will. You want people to be interested enough to stop whatever they were planning on doing and come with you.

Repeat your announcements every couple of minutes so that the new arrivals can hear, but don�t spam it constantly to the point where you annoy the people who are sitting in the area.

If you haven�t found many members by /announcing, next try the community window (CTRL+P). Open up the search window and select �Looking for Group� then search. It will list all the players currently looking for a group. Send those players /tells and ask them if they would like to join your group. You can also use the community search function to find specific types of people. Need a medic for your group? Search for medics. Need a few brawlers? Search for them. You can search for people by base profession (medics/brawlers/scouts etc.) or you can get really specific and search for by title like �Artilleryman� or something like that. This is a great tool to find group members (or anyone else). Make use of it. (And while you have the community window open, don�t forget to select �Looking for Group� for your own character so that people can find you when they search. Note: If you have looking for group selected, it automatically deselects when you join a group. You have to reset it each time.)

Two other great options for finding group members: Joining a Player Association, and Grouping with your real life friends. Both options are great for having steady group members.

The Initial Group

So you found your group or formed one of your own, now you�re at what I call the initial group stage. The initial stage is one of the most trying for the group because, depending on the group, it takes a great deal of patience. You might have been one of the first players to join the group, but the leader is trying to recruit 8 more people, so you have to wait. Or one group member has some �friend� who is on the way and is begging you not to leave. Or one or two members have to leave for 5-10 minutes to check the bazaar, or go to the bank, or train, or hundreds of other excuses.

I�ve had groups where this period has lasted up to 45 minutes. Other times it has lasted only a few seconds. In general, the more complex the group you want to form, the longer this period is going to last. People will drop out, it�s part of the process. It�s up to the members of the group to determine how long is too long before they �get to the action.� You want to wait long enough to find a few quality group members, but you don�t want to wait so long that everyone starts to leave. It�s a tough balance.

One idea is to put the �waiting� members of the group to work for the good of the group. Send them to get supplies. Send them to other popular areas to find members. Put them to work on the community window, have one look for medics and another for scouts, for instance. Ask them to get in contact with their friends who might want to come along. If all else fails. Talk to them. Ask them questions about what they like to hunt, what weapons they use, what fun times they have had. Do what you can to keep them in the group and more importantly, keep them interested. If you are the group organizer, the effort you put in directly relates to the overall success of the group. (Yep, I think it�s quite clear that I spent a good part of beta as an entertainer.)

Grouping Basics

Ok, so you found a group of players together to form a group. Now what? Here are some of the grouping basics.

Forming Commands

To start a group select a potential member then select �Invite to Group.� You can also type /invite . If someone else invites you, click join in the invite window or type /join . Don�t want to join the group? Then /decline

When the group is over the leader can /disband to disband the group. /leave when you want to remove yourself from a group. When you want to remove a single person from the group, the leader can /disband to get rid of them.

If you organized the group, but don�t want to lead, you can always make someone else the leader. The leader can use /makeleader to make someone else in the group the new group leader.

Group Speak

Group speak is one of the best features of grouping. Learn to use it and use it often. You can type either /gsay or /gtell or /groupsay in front whatever you have to say. Only your group members will be able to see what you say in group speak. If you have a �Groupspeak� chat tab open, then that window will only show groupspeak messages. Sometimes it is convenient to drag the groupspeak tab to form its own window. Also, for extreme convenience use CTRL+G to automatically type /gsay.

Group Commands

The group leader and members have access to a few different group commands. For instance everyone has access to /group info and /group leader. The leader can also use /group options or /group menu to access the group options menu. All of these are pretty self-explanatory.

Group Member Highlighting

Listen up. Here comes one of the most important aspects of grouping. Group member highlighting. Did you know that you can use the control keys to select members of your group? CTRL+1 always selects your own character, whether you are in a group or not. This is useful for emotes that use yourself as the target, personal image designing and a number of other uses.

CTRL+2 selects the first group member. If you are not the leader, the first member is always the leader. If you are the leader, the first member is the first member you invited. Keep going to toggle through all your members. CTRL+3 selects the second member. CTRL+4 selects the third member. Et cetera. An easy way to remember is to count down from the top to the group member you want, add 1 and that�s the key you need to hit. The ninth group member is CTRL+0, then it just keeps going to the right. Ten uses -, Eleven uses =.

Some of you might be sarcastically thinking to yourselves, �Ohhh I can save the two seconds it takes me to click on the group member. That�s really useful.� Well, it really is really really useful. Besides the fact that you can use this to easily select your group members, which is next to impossible when everyone is running around or 60 meters away, there are a few more very powerful uses for this.

One of the first things every newb should learn is the TAB-tilde-1. The tab key cycles through all enemies within range. The tilde key (~ left of the number 1 key) brings up the radial menu for any selected target. Each radial menu command is numbered so you can use that command by pressing the corresponding number. Attack is usually number one. So TAB-tilde-1, three quick keys and you�re in combat. Much quicker than physically selecting the enemy, bringing up the radial menu, then clicking combat. (Actually an even quicker way is to TAB then CTRL+K which combats any target.)

The same philosophy works for groups. You can select any member, then use the tilde key to bring up the radial menu. Then you can easily select a variety of commands. Use it to quickly autofollow a group member, when teaching, when healing, when assisting, etc. (Note: Don�t try to memorize the numbers right away, they may be different depending on your skills. You could end up kicking a member when you want to heal, or teaching when you want to stop following.)

That�s the deal on group highlighting. Learn it and learn it well. This is what separates skilled group members from the newbs.

Hotkeys

Hotkeys are a pretty basic SWG feature, but I felt the guide wouldn�t be complete without at least a brief mention of them since group members are likely to use them a lot.

Your character has five hotkey windows each with 24 slots (you can expose the bottom 12 by dragging the hotkey box down). For you math nuts, that�s 120 possible slots for you to put stuff. You can access the different hotkey windows using CTRL+1 � CTRL+5

You use the F-keys to select the hotkeys. The first twelve are F1-F12, the bottom twelve are SHIFT+F1-SHIFT+F12.

Inside the hotkey boxes you can place any command, mood, emote, macro, or inventory item. You can find a lot of these by hitting CTRL+A. Just find what you want and drag it to the desired spot in the hotkey.

The hotkeys make it really convenient to avoid typing complicated commands, equip and unequip weapons, and to use other items like General Crafting Tools and Healing Products with ease. Learn to place your most used commands, items, and macros in convenient to reach hotkeys. The faster you respond in a group, the better group member you are. Hotkeys (combined with all these other speed tips) can help you respond almost instantly.

Assisting

Assisting is a critical part of any combat group. Helping each other is a great thing to do, true. But in this case I�m talking about the actual command /assist. /assist places you into combat with whomever or whatever your target is in combat with. So you can select a group member and use assist to fight whatever they are fighting. Keep assist handy, very handy. Put it in a prominent spot in your hotkeys. Keeping other group friendly commands like /peace, /follow, and /stopfollow are also good ideas.

The Hunting Group

The vast majority of SWG groups are hunting groups. Here I focus mainly on the makeup and roles in the combat group. There are some other excellent grouping guides on the net which outline specific fighting tactics. You may want to look at those also.

Group Roles

There are a few different group roles that members might take in a group. I�ve split all of these up, but in practice one member might perform many of these roles at once.

Leader: Somebody is the group leader. The group leader does not have to necessarily lead the group, but the group member is responsible for keeping the loot, and other administrative functions.

Guide: The guide is the member(s) loosely responsible for what the group does. The guide has the plan. The guide knows where the group is going and what they plan to hunt. Usually the guide is at the front leading the group while everyone else autofollows. The guide is mainly responsible for moving the group along effectively, waiting for members who are lagging behind, looking for potential prey, and above all, keeping the group from dashing blindly into the middle of a tough enemy camp. Everyone else in the group can casually click on autofollow and then use the time to chat with each other using groupspeak. The guide can even do this to a point by using NUM-LOCK to auto run so he/she can talk as well; however, the guide needs to be alert and constantly view what�s happening off in the distance and on the radar.

Point: The point characters are usually the first into combat. Brawlers make excellent points. The brawler running to the enemy gives everyone else time to set up and prepare to fire. Everyone should select the point person and when they enter combat (you�ll see the twin red combat swords by their HAM bars), everyone should then quickly /assist them. Two other good reasons to have brawlers at point is simple ease of combat and group member protection. Brawlers are toe to toe with the enemy while a rifleman might be 60 meters behind. Obviously, it is way easier for the brawler to select the next enemy than the rifleman, so the brawler should do it. But you also have to remember group member protection. Everyone should be attacking the brawler�s opponent because if you don�t, the brawler will soon be dead. Marksman can also be on point, which is useful for pulling single enemies away from camps.

Support: The support characters either don�t participate in combat or participate indirectly. Medics are the true definition of support. Other characters might use commands like /threaten shot to scare off other enemies so the group can deal with them one at a time. In practice, support characters help the group in some way besides being part of the main attacking force.

Professional Roles

I also use professional roles very loosely here as well. There will be very few �pure� profession players. Some medics are combat medics. Many combatants have melee and ranged skills. Entertainers can also be cooks. Cooks can also be Riflemen. Etc.

Marksmen: Marksmen will probably make up the majority of most groups. If you are a marksman, know your role. If you�ve noticed, I�m very brawler biased. So marksmen, your role is to help me stay alive. Why? Because if the enemy is pounding me into pudding then it means he is not pounding you. Once I die, he�s coming for straight for you.

You want to help the brawlers fight whatever they are fighting. You�ll want to try to do as much damage as possible as quickly as you can. That means use your special attacks. You want to be as accurate as you can. That means putting yourself in an accurate position. Have you noticed that enemies have little blue numbers on the left when you fight them? That is your accuracy. It constantly changes during the fight. You want this number to be as high and as positive as possible. Negative is bad, really bad. There are exceptions, but in most cases for marksmen, kneeling will raise your accuracy, going prone will raise it even more. Riflemen get the best accuracy when they are 40 to 60 meters away from the opponent. Carbines, a little closer. Pistols, even closer, but still try to stay a good 10 meters away. Moving targets reduce accuracy (aren�t you happy you have that stationary brawler keeping him in one spot), and moving yourself reduces your accuracy. So remember, above all else� be as accurate as possible.

Brawlers: The brawlers role is to be at melee (duh). His job is a) Keep the enemy from moving around by standing there getting pounded on, b) Do some damage himself, and c) Give everyone a single target to focus on.

Brawlers should try to get the enemy�s attention. Try to attack first. Use taunting and other tactics to pull the enemies to you. As a brawler you�ll want to try to lay on as much damage as you can before you really get hurt. Be cautious of your posture-affect attacks. Taking a enemy to kneeling or prone might be great for you, but it decreases the accuracy of your marksmen friends.

If you start to get critically hurt, ask the next brawler to take over while you try to retreat. If you are the only brawler then DO NOT MOVE. In most cases, even running, you�ll die anyway. Plus, since it is now a moving target you decrease the accuracy for all the marksmen, who may even be forced to get up and run after you, decreasing accuracy even more. Even when critically injured, you�ll want to stay in that one spot. Trust that your group members are helping you out and with luck they will kill the enemy before he finishes you off. And (because of a recent patch), if the enemy does incap you, you are most likely dead.

First to combat, most hurt, first to die. This is the role of the brawler. Other group members, understand what the brawler does for you, respect it and be understanding of it (i.e. Feel free to pool some credits together for his/her cloning/insurance. And be willing to wait for them to return from the cloning center.)

Medics: Medics you are worth your weight in gold. You�re job is keeping everyone alive during the fight, sometimes helping in the fight, as well as post-combat healing in the camp. During combat, an alert medic needs to keep an eye on all the group members� HAM bars. If you see that someone is dropping fast, try to get over there. Use your handy quick group member select to highlight them then start healing. You can use the radial menu to heal. You might also have healing commands and healing supplies from your inventory in your hotkey, this is a great idea that will speed up your response. That faster you are, the more group members you can keep alive. The wise medic knows when to fight, when to not fight and strictly heal, who needs healing the most, and even when to jump in yourself to melee so that someone else can get away. The medic has arguably one of the toughest assignments in any group. Treat your medics well.

Entertainers: The entertainer can heal mind wounds while inside a camp environment. Many people feel that entertainers shouldn�t be in a group (entertainers and non-entertainers alike). I disagree. You are thinking very small if every time you see someone with an �Entertainer� profession tag, you picture someone who isn�t good at combat or can�t help the group. During most of beta my main character was an entertainer by trade, but he was also one of the most skilled two-handed weapon users on the server. Just like action and health wounds, you�ll want those mind wounds to be as low as possible. So do your best to get someone with entertainer skills to come with your group.

Scouts: Scouts have almost too many jobs to name. Scouts have the creature harvesting ability, which can lead to many group conflicts. Groups need to discuss beforehand a) How many scouts they have in the group, and b) Who will harvest and in what order. Split the harvesting duties equally to be fair. The same goes for camps. Unless you specifically need a higher level camp for something, let every scout have shot at some Wilderness Survival experience. Also, scouts, be nice and give the lion�s share of your harvested resources to the crafters in your group so they can make products to help you while the group rests in camp.

Scouts make great guides due to /maskscent and their superior movement abilities. They can scout ahead to find prey while the rest of the group follows behind. They can use their creature knowledge to find out if an animal is aggressive or not. And since some scouts go on to become creature handlers, they might grab a few babies on way. A quick word about Squad Leaders, a mostly scout based profession. Squad leaders give a number of useful bonuses to groups, but they must be the group leader for the bonuses to work. You can still lead the group if you want, but let the squad leader take over the role as �group leader� so that the group can receive the bonuses. Also, it�s just the nice thing to do, squad leaders must lead groups just to advance. Give them some help.

Artisans: Gasp! Artisans in a combat group?!? Well, why not? The statement about entertainers applies here as well, just because someone is an artisan does not mean they cannot fight. Even if they can�t fight, artisans are still great to have along in the group. Work hard to drag those artisans out of the cities with you. While in camp artisans can survey around to find resources for themselves and other group members. The higher Ranger camps even come with crafting stations. So theoretically, if you have a few artisans in your group, and a high level camp, they can: Survey for resources, repair your weapons, make new weapons/clothes and other items, cook tons of life enhancing food and drinks, they can even bring out the droids to help.

The Entertaining Band

Here is a quick entertainer section. Combatants might want to just skip this to get to the next section: Post Group.

Another useful group is the entertaining band. Groups of entertainers can get together to form a band. Then if someone watches one member, all members receive the healing experience (albeit healing experience that is split X number of ways depending on how many members are in the band). Also, one member can lead the group in band flourishes for musician and/or dancer experience. In this way everyone gets experience for the efforts of one. (See some of the popular entertainer guides for more info on bands, group flourishes, and the like.)

I�ll use this spot to insert my quick entertainer rant. Entertainers, bands, get out of the cantinas! Most newbie entertainers think you are supposed to entertain in the cantina and only the cantina. Well� that�s true, and it�s not. The cantina is the most convenient place to earn entertainer experience. Everyone comes to see you. You receive all three (or four if you do some type of image designing) forms of entertaining experience in one one-stop shop.

It is my view that most entertainers should spend a third of their time in the cantina to help out with battle fatigue. Another third should be spent somewhere else. Where? Anywhere that is not the cantina. I used to play for groups of surveyors clustered together on the west side of Coronet, I played for crafters hanging out at the crafting stations, I played for players who were returning to town after a hunt. Most entertainers respond with, �but no one will listen to me if I�m not healing battle fatigue or mind wounds.� My response? Who cares? There are two reasons you should play outside of the cantina. 1) You can earn musician and dancer experience anywhere. And you can earn it regardless of who is watching or not. 2) Two key factors of the entertainment profession: exposure and public communication. If people see you out in the street, they are more likely to listen to you when they see you in the cantina. If you spend the time to play and talk with the surveyors, they might listen and throw some /applauds your way. A big part of being an entertainer has nothing to do with flourishes or battle fatigue, it has to do with being well-known, well-liked, and (tah-dah) an entertainer. That means giving them an entertaining experience. Like forming and maintaining a group, the longer you can keep people interested, the better it is for you.

That last third of entertaining time (back to groups now) should be spent out in the field, playing for hunting groups in camps. Most entertainers in cantinas who I asked to come usually respond with �But I can�t fight.� Folks, any character can shoot a pistol. The more guns in the group, the better. But even if you do not want to fight, you�d do a great service to the group just by following behind them and cheering them on. Then, of course, entertaining while in camp (and if loot-split is on, you get money each time just for being part of the group).

But what if none of that appeals to you. Here is the most critical reason every entertainer should spend a significant amount of time in camps. If you go on a hunt, you are usually the only entertainer there (that is the only skilled entertainer, many people pick up novice entertainer on the side). This means that you�ll have the entire group watching only you. In this situation, entertainment healing flies. Most entertainers complain because entertainment healing is a hard skill to raise. My entertainment healing skill was always above my musician skill for the life of my character� because I spent most of my time playing in camps as opposed to the cantina.

Now back to our regularly scheduled grouping guide.

Post Group

The hunt is over and you�re heading back to town. But your job isn�t over yet. Write down the names of group members who particularly impressed you (and you might want to keep track of those you never want to group with again). Put them in your friends list. A little later, send them in-game mails telling them that you enjoyed the group and would like to group again. Most importantly of all, tell your group that you had a great time and you thank everyone for their participation (especially do this if you organized the group).

Thanking people is critical. No matter how you cut it, everyone in the group benefits because of the efforts of the other members. Grouping isn�t easy, it requires patience and a willingness to give up some of your power over what your character does. Thank them for grouping, they are helping you immensely.

The Part of Tens

10 Grouping Commandments

1. Thou Shalt Not Be Impatient

You MUST be patient to group. You have to be patient when the group is forming up. You must be patient when the group is working on missions other than your own. You must be patient when a few people are getting healed in a camp while you are fine and ready to go. You must be patient when you want to attack, but the rest of the group is forming a plan. If you cannot do any of this, then you don�t deserve to group.

Impatient people are also inconsiderate people. They are the first to suggest that you don�t wait on someone who is on their way. They are the first to say �Let�s leave em� when someone is lagging behind or goes linkdead. They are the first to say �Screw them� because they don�t want to wait when someone dies and is running back to the group.

People who run off on their own or constantly scream �LET�S GO NOW!!� or �SEE THAT OVER THERE, KILL IT, KILL IT, KILL IT, KILL IT!!!!� are people who are promptly kicked from my groups and banned until they grow up.

2. Thou Shalt Not Attack a Camp/Lair Before Informing Others

This is the natural extension of commandment one. I love laughing at people who run off on their own to attack some high level camp or lair. They come running back to us, looking for help, and we promptly run in the totally opposite direction away from the battle until that person is dead. Cold? Perhaps. But what usually happens is that one moron goes off alone and gets eight enemies attacking him. Then the group rushes in to save the fool which results in EVERYONE being killed. Smart groups don�t sacrifice themselves for morons.

Always take at least a few seconds to come up with a battle plan or to tell your group members what you plan to do.

3. Thou Shalt Not Ninja Harvest/Camp

Be considerate. Don�t try to be the first person to harvest the creature or the first to lay down the camp so you can get the most experience. Work with your group to develop a harvesting and camping order for all the scouts in the group.

A fun trick for group leaders when there is a ninja harvester: Without telling anyone, cut on looting notifications. Then the next time it happens, everyone will see plain as day who the culprit is.

4. Thou Leader Shall Share the Loot

I don�t like how SWG gives all the loot to the group leader. But honestly, I�ve never been able to think of a way for the system to automatically and fairly distribute the loot. And how would the system know who wanted which loot anyway?

As the group leader, group members expect you to A) Tell them about the looted items, and B) Offer items to whomever wants them. Sure, you can keep some for yourself, but never try to hog it all.

5. If Thou Hath Starteth Neutral; Keep It Neutral

If your group didn�t form on the basis of attacking rebels or imperials, then don�t try to shift that focus in the middle of the hunt. Nothing pisses of covert players more than some overexcited group member screaming �Ohh look, some imperials!!!! Let�s go kill them everybody!!!!�

It�s just common courtesy. Covert players tend to like to stay that way without everyone in the group finding out or fights breaking out or group kicking because they refuse to attack imperials or rebels.

6. Thou Shalt Not Run Around When a MOB is Hurting You at Melee

I think we covered this pretty well, already. But it needed repeating. For the good of the group: STAY STILL.

7. Thou Shalt Know What�s Going On; Ask Questions when Thou Doesn�t Know

Also known as the newbie commandment. There is nothing wrong with being a newbie. Just make sure you tell everyone in the group about it. Let everyone know that you are new. Ask for advice and playing tips.

Above all else, be humble. Why? Because you are new and we know better than you!!

I can�t count the number of times where my character, a brawler, turned slightly to his left to see some newbie rifleman a) Standing Up, and b) Right next to the enemy, all of a meter away!!!! Let me tell you, you may not have seen furious red as a skin selection for Rodians when you create your character, but you would see one pissed off Rodian whenever he found a rifleman not in a prone position or anywhere closer than 20 meters. On a couple instances, these clueless newbs have the nerve to tell me that I was wrong and only trying to trick them into staying far back so that I could get the most experience!?!?!?!

If you are new, try to learn as much as possible (hey, you�re reading this guide, great start). Always, always, always, ask questions.

8. Thou Shalt Be Helpful and Friendly to Group Members

The proper combination to commandment seven. Newbies aren�t bad people just because they don�t know what�s going on. As a veteran, go out of your way to help newbies along and educate them. The newbie today may be a great and loyal group member tomorrow.

On top of that, be friendly to all your group members, even if they are screwing up or if you don�t like them for some reason. For one, just by being in the group, they are helping you out. Two, you will most likely run across that person at some point in the future, and you will need them for something.

9. Thou Shalt /assist Your Fellow Group Members

Not the moron who runs off by himself. But assist everyone else. Groups aren�t about doing your own thing. Keeping everyone alive indirectly keeps you alive. If someone yells for help, immediately highlight that group member and use your /assist hotkey. You can do this before you even really know where they are. Just follow the combat arrow to the enemy and get into your best accuracy position. It goes without saying, assist your brawlers. Brawlers, try to pull everything off of your marksmen friends. Non-combats, try to stay away from the main combat if you can. If you get in trouble, ask for help, but keep in mind that you might have to wait for the primary target to die before you get it. If everyone immediately switches to help you then the brawler(s) will die. When they die, now you have two hostile enemies, instead of one, and both will proceed to pick off all the medics/marksmen one by one. Assist whenever possible, but at the end of the day, it�s better to focus fire on one enemy at a time than to have everyone splitting up to fight their own losing battles.

10. Thou Shalt Use Groupspeak and Communicate with Fellow Group Members

I think we covered this well. But it bears repeating. For a group, communication is life.

10 Ways to Be a Better Group Member

1. Pick up some medic/entertaining/artisan skills: The more non-combat abilities you have, the more useful you are to the group. It would be great if you could find an expert chef, and expert medic, and skilled musician to travel with you every time you hunt, but you can�t. In a pinch, it�s great when one of the pistoleers can heal, and one of the brawlers dance, while the scout also doubles as a blue milk dealer.

2. Don�t be afraid to pay: Sometimes it�s hard to get entertainers out of the cantina, or doctors out of the hospital, or artisans to stop surveying for 10 solid minutes, or a lone ranger to come to town. But it would be great to have them in your hunting party. So, don�t be afraid to fork over some funds. Cold hard credits. That�s right, pay them to come with you. Offer them something like 30% up front and 70% when you return plus a share of the resources. Nothing beats high level food or on the spot high level healing. Never be afraid to pay people for their services. If you are willing to fork over a big part of the credits, then you truly are a valuable member to the group.

3. Expand the group: Valuable group members are always looking for ways to strengthen the group. While you are autofollowing the leader, maybe you can use part of that time to search the community window (CTRL+P) to find additional members. Then you can use /tells to keep these potential members updated about your position as they run out to meet you.

4. Bring Supplies: Valuable group members come equipped with tons of supplies ready to go. They have camps/stimpacks/food all ready and waiting. Even better when they have these supplies before they join the group so that everyone does not have to wait on them.

5. Get Missions: Suggest that everyone get missions and coordinate it so that all the missions are around a common direction. Then take them out one by one.

6. Trade Off Running Duty: Volunteer to take over running duty every once in awhile so one person isn�t forced to be the guide all the time.

7. Expand your fighting potential: Valuable group members come to combat pre-healed, with the best weapons/armor they can afford, and consume lots of useful food/drinks right before combat begins.

8. Keep in Touch: Good group members keep in touch after the group has ended. Send in-game mails and add people to your friends list. Try to connect with them later to group again.

9. Give Praise: Praise your group members when they do things well. Cheer when you blow up the lair. Praise the brawlers for standing tough. Also use praise to combat behavior you want to eliminate. To use the mentioned example about the newbie riflemen who fired from 1 meter away, praise some other group you once had (real or imaginary) where the riflemen got to prone and stayed 40 to 60 meters back. The newbies will get the hint. And when they do it, praise them for doing a great job.

10. Have Fun: Valuable group members truly have fun grouping. They are valuable because fun is contagious. If one member is having a blast then chances are everyone else is having a great time as well.

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This guide is limited to JUST the Rebel PvE as I have not yet tried PvP battlefields or the Imperial ones (I don’t have an Imperial character yet). Also, I am not going over the most basic details as they are covered in this Friday’s feature that has been added to the SWG online manual. Please go there for the basics.

Where to go?

Here’s the thing. There is only one Rebel PvE battlefield working correctly – at least as of today August 23, 2003 on the server Chilastra. I can’t speak for the other servers, but what we found is that when the battlefield warps you into the battlefield it is set to the coordinates 3785, -4037. That’s fine if you are on Corellia, because that’s where it is supposed to send you. However, if you are on Rori, you are out of luck.

This means the only battlefield to play Rebel PvE on is the Corellia Rebel PvE.

Temporary Enemy Flag

Many times you cannot get into a battlefield when you have a temporary enemy flag (TEF). Unfortunately the game does not ever give you direct feedback on what gives you a TEF, so it’s hard to tell what it was for certain, but it appears that healing yourself or others or fighting anything even mobs without any faction gives you this flag. If anyone can test to narrow this, then it would be great.

How do you fix it? Sit around. Don’t heal anyone, don’t fight anything. Watch tv for 10 minutes and come back. You should be able to enter the battlefield then.

Battlefield entry

Once you get in, it’s time to scramble away before you have a turret spawn right on top of you and a stormtrooper to boot. Run away from the structure you see. If you are entering a battle that is in progress then there is a good chance that these have already spawned and you will die upon spawning. Which makes it important that you follow the next step.

After you’ve entered you should take out the small turret and Imperial trooper that spawns outside the wall where other Rebels come in. You’ve already bugged out from their firing range. The trick is to move just inside range to get aggro on the stormtrooper, then run out of range of the turret. Turrets hit hard, so be sure to have a medic with you. After you are out of turret range, take out the stormtrooper. Then you go back and start hitting the small turret. Turrets can be beaten by moving in for a few hits, then moving back out of range to heal before re-engaging.

Winning the Battlefield

Okay, you’ve secured the route for people who spawn in. Hopefully they will fix the spawn point so that you don’t need to do this, but this is a decent stop-gap.

Now it’s time to start doing your objective, blowing up the 4 objects that were given waypoints in your datapad. The trick to this is to attack from afar and do not engage the stormtroopers inside. This is a bug, but you can shoot base structures without pulling aggro as long as you are out of range of the stormtroopers. You will notice that walls, and what not are in the way, and that’s okay because a cool thing about battlefields is that you can blow up all the walls, etc. by shooting them.

Clear out all the waypointed structures and you win!

Bugs and General Information

1. The biggest bug/exploit is the lack of aggro by the stormtroopers. This makes battlefields incredibly easy, but it probably is known by the devs already because the reward for winning is terrible. We wanted to engage the stormtroopers, but there are like 8 all standing together. They would have killed us within seconds if we had engaged one and we were trying to learn. Dying and waiting for the new BF to spawn would have slowed us down. They do not move around at all, so you can’t use pulling tactics or even patience. The troopers outside the walls move, but those inside are completely stationary. I don’t think they’ve worked out how to do mobs and walls yet. Even on faction missions the mobs love to warp outside of walls and don’t really know how to follow a wall to exit a building. The warping is probably there because of this. . . to keep them from getting stuck, etc.

2. Low Rewards. You do not receive points for each of these structures, but instead receive a base reward of 25 points. Whenever you take out a certain number of stormtroopers you receive a message stating that you have earned a battlefield ranking of 1.0. My guess is that this number goes up if you kill many NPCs, so that winning the battleifield can be worth more if you have fought harder to attack it than others. If this rating were to go to 2.0, you would receive 50, 3.0 = 75, etc. Even if this is the case, the reward is terrible for the amount of running that is necessary to reach the battlefields and the strength of the NPCs. The stormtroopers give only one faction point, when they would normally give nearly the whole battlefield’s worth in faction points by doing missions from faction terminals. The battlefield is interesting and fun, but very risky and very low reward.

3. There is no way to call pets (except for the declared residence exploit). Unfortunately, you cannot set up camps in battlefields. Accordingly, you are not allowed to use pets of any kind in PvE unless you have the declared residence bug/exploit (Not sure which to call it because those with it did not TRY to get it).

4. Artisans are out of luck in PvE. Everyone heard about the ability to make structures that can help in battlefields? Well, in PvE this is not possible unfortunately because there is not a Rebel base. This may be possible in the PvE battlefields that are for defending, but the current bug that warps players to the Correlia PvE coordinates keeps us from finding out. Artisans can still go and have a good time, but their special skills will not be as useful as they are supposed to be in other types of battlefields.

5. Difficulty is either super high or super low. You can use the guide above and win very easily with two players, but trying to win without exploiting (I don’t plan to do this again except when testing – I don’t have a huge group willing to run forever in order to test and fight legitimately unforutnately) would be INCREDIBLY difficult for a small group, but fairly easy for a large one. 8 stormtroopers are bad, but not at all impossible. One party of 20 with advanced players could wipe the battlefield clean in a few minutes.

6. Warp point is too close to the base. Players should load in somewhere safe! Please follow the guide as the people to initally warp in get a few seconds to load in and get out of range while things spawn, but lets keep sending /bug reports until the devs hear us and move these spawn points somewhere less ridiculously under fire.

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First off in PVP you need to be prepared, this has many meanings, and I will attempt to touch the subject as broad viewed as possible.

Buff�s : Very important, you will need enhancements to PVP nowadays if you try without you will end up dead or incapped and laughed at, so be sure to get buffs from your local doctor.

Don�t forget to buff your Mind too! Very important and often overlooked, your mind-pool is the main HAM bar most people will aim for, thus its only natural you buff it as much as you can. Musicians, and Dancers, are wonderful to buff your mind. Dancers will double your mind-pool, while musicians will double your minds secondaries like focus, and willpower. Getting both might be very hard these days with al the, Afk�ers, and hologrinders, but very useful if you can.

TIP : watch a dancer or musician for 15 minutes ( normal buff duration ) or 3.4 minutes ( speed buff duration using flourish macro ) after you�ve watched do /stoplisten or /stopwatch then watch or listen again and ask the dancer or musician to buff you again ,watch or listen him/her again for the duration needed to get 2 hour buffs

Go PvP or whatever DON�T type /stoplisten or /stopwatch until your first mindbuff fades after 2 hours .then do /stoplisten or /stopwatch and your second mind buff will kick in and you�ll have new mindbuff(s)

Personally I prefer musician buff over the dancer buffs but that�s something everyone needs to figure out on his own. In PVP mostly you�ll use your mind HAM when doing specials therefore you want to have your focus buffed, and willpower for regen, a large HAM pool might look better, (aka dancer buffs) but a good musician buff will do much better in controlling your mind pool HAM use, and regen rate, if you can get both, you have the best of 2 things, and will have a very nice edge in PVP.

Food & Drink : There are various foods that can be used in PVP ill only mention a few I�ve observed other people use allot and the ones I use. I suggest you looking it up on the net, all possible food that can be made by a chef for full detail, but I�ll go over the basics as best I can.

-Blue milk :
600 ish instant heal to your mind for 30 ish filing not often used but useful in a tight situation where you need that little edge over the opponent (drink )

-vangnerian canape :
650 ish on focus and willpower, 33 filling, 9 minutes, a great help if you don�t have musician buff�s, and even if you have, it has a short duration true, but has low filling. Eating 3 of them on top of a musician buff, and believe me even those FOTM rifleman will wonder why your mind remains full. (food )

-synthsteak :
43% DMG reduction for 42 attacks, lasts 23 minutes, 29 filling (most likely the effect will have been used up before those 23 minutes are over) This is food that gives a very nice edge in PVP especially if your facing a hard opponent like a rifleman with a ion rifle or various others that sometimes hit hard for one or another reason. This will reduce 43% of the DMG you take after your armour reduction has fully had its course, personally my favourite in PVP food. ( food )

-Thakitillo :
this will give something close to + 95 defence Vs KD for about 12 minutes at the cost of 44 filling a fencer or pistoleer using this food is near impossible to ever Kd , posture change attack will still work though just no Kd ( Kd= knockdown ) ( food )

-Ithorian Mist :
this will give 20 defence Vs dizzy for 12 minutes and has about 11 filling some people swear by it .. I myself rarely use it but a good way to get extra def (drink )

-Citroncake :
This will add 40 to accuracy for 20ish minutes 28 filling. Most will wonder why this food? Well try hitting a fencer with a Cob loop macro, believe me you�ll be glad you ate this. Basically this will give you an added bonus of 40 accuracy, on the weapon you�re using at that time in the right situation a good food. (food )

-Verculpti :
1150 Health / Action / Mind for 7ish minutes, 60ish filling, a highly unknown food and very underrated in my opinion, granted it has allot of filling but can still be used in combo with synthsteak making for a very nice combo. It adds 1150 HAM to your pools that isn�t nothing, that on top of your buff�s will give a big HAM pool in the right situation, a nice edge. (food )

-aircake:
40 dodge bonus, 23 minutes, 11 filling, commonly used by fencers and pistoleers to make it even harder to hit them, if your a fencer or pistoleer, I greatly advise you using it in combo with a Cob macro loop, and watch everyone miss you. (food )

-Ahrisa :
400 to focus, for about 35-40 minutes, 33ish filling, if I�m not mistaken don�t quote me on it, I�m all out of the stuff and haven�t found a chef in 2 days that could tell me, but its a useful food especially if you happen to use allot of mind HAM for your special attacks. ( food )

-vasarian brandy :
420 to Mind/focus/willpower, 40 minutes, 50 filling, a must use, whoever you are vs. any opponent this is the mother of useful drinks it explains itself and anyone can see why its useful. Not only does it boost you mind pool, but your secondaries too, it has allot of filling true but 2 can be consumed at the same time giving a nice buff. (drink )

These aren�t all food & drinks in game but most widely used ones that I know of, from the people I know and have asked. The stats are based on what I just bought from a dude which is a very good chef I�ve seen some with better stats but these are nice enough as it is.

Spice : I add this just in case of emergencies spice will often give you a temporary boost but has serious drawbacks only to be used in desperate times

-Moun gold :
500 to mind , focus and willpower for 10 minutes , a nice extra help but BEWARE the 5 minutes Downer reducing your stats by 500 to all 3 if you use this find a spot to sit out the downer in safety

-Pixie neuron:
1000 Health , 200 Strength , 200 constitution , 500 action , 50 Quickness , 50 stamina for 13 minutes , while useful at times again BEWARE the 5 minutes downer that will reduce your stats by the same amount as it increased it before ..

Armour : Another very important part of PVP is armour seeing as you want to reduce as much DMG as you can you want the best armour you can get. At this time, in game that�s composite armour.

Advanced composite with stats of 80 kinetic, 80 electric, and 65% base can mostly be made on any server, and by almost any master armoursmith. Now while this armour is good, you will want a smuggler to slice it on it�s effectiveness raising the base stats from 65% up to 90% as the max. Slices are random so unless you find an vendor that sells pre-sliced armour you�ll have a hard time putting a full set together.

Another point in PVP, 80% of the people you�ll encounter will use STUN DMG type. Seeing as composite is vulnerable to stun it will ignore your armour rating and thus inflict allot of DMG upon you. I recommend using stun layer composite, which has the following stats, obtainable by almost any master armour-smith 80 elect, 23 stun, 65%base. (You�ll notice kinetic isn�t high anymore because it will have moved to a base) Stun layered composite will not be vulnerable to stun DMG, and the Armourrating, light (AR-1) will work against some weapons I�ll go into this further down in this manual.

Top PVP players will most likely have a full set with stats in the lines of 80% elct / 32% stun / base 80-90 (after they have had it sliced of course).

Decay & Insurance : Very important to remember, is to insure your armour, decay should be removed from game, when you PVP, but you can still get decay, if you are triple incaped, or sometimes by a disease, or fire DoT, or sometimes even none of the above, you just get decay. It�s strange, and has baffled me at times, but best thing to do is insure, so that if you get decay its only 1% and that won�t matter much.

*note : regularly check the condition on your armour be sure to get it repair when it hits 55% of total condition I�ve seen people who totally forgot that and when they finally checked there expensive 40% stun 90% base chest or helmet they noticed that it was down to almost 15% of total condition and when they tried to repair it , It broke and went to 1/1 condition ..

PSG�s : Personal Shield Generators, are an essential part of PVP, these will save you a lot in combat against fencer�s, and pistoleer�s. There are 2 way of using them, an expensive way, requiring a lot of cash, or a cheap way requiring a helpful armour-smith.

1: Going for the Max % resist shields, these are good seeing as some can go up to 43% un-sliced, witch is nice, and decreases allot of DMG but most PSG�s have 3k condition, and if your letting it take 43% of your DMG it will break after a few shots. For example a rifleman shoots you for 500 DMG, your PSG shield decreases that by 43% (215 DMG) that means that you just lost 215 condition on your shield, and in effect about 12 shots will kill your shield it�s useful but expensive because high % PSG shields will cost a lot of money, and in big PVP battles 12 shots are only the fist few seconds of battle.

2 : Ask a armour-smith to make you some MK.1 PSG�s, these are the lowest of the lows of PSG�s BUT! These still have armour-rating 1 (light). Witch means that if they are hit by a weapon that has got no Armour-pierce 1, like the stun baton, or the genocian blaster frequently encountered weapons in PVP.

MK.1 PSG�s, will reduce 50% of the DMG, and then start on the % resist the shield has. Now these shields must never be experimented on or sliced to raise resist. Keep them at 7% they can�t go lower unfortunately but just keep them there, because there use is just to work as an extra armour-rating layer, by only taking 7% DMG of a shot, they will last a lot longer.

Example a pistoleer shoots you for 500 DMG, your % resist takes of 7% DMG (35 DMG). That means your shield would need 90 shots to break. Personally I prefer latter, but then again this last shield will only work vs. genocian blaster, and stun batons. While a ion rifle (a rifleman favourite) will cut right trough it, because it has AP-1 (light ), and will only take 7% DMG off. Witch is, as you saw not to much, but still I prefer the second, make up your own mind about it.

*Note: I already calculated the PVP DMG reduction with the initial DMG so that�s 500 DMG in PVP*
*Note : PSG�s can be sliced to increase effectiveness if you want *

Tip : click on your combat Tab and pull it to the right upper corner of your screen . this will make you able to monitor the combat spamm and will help you see how much dmg you take and what kind of attacks your opponent is using

Weapons : Essential to combat are your weapons, know them, understand them, and use them correctly!! This means use the right weapon, against the right opponent, a energy pistol won�t do much against a composite wearing opponent, a stun pistol might!

Don�t waste your stun pistol on someone, if you see he�s wearing umbese Pull out your republic blaster, and let him eat energy DMG. Basically know to adapt to your opponents armour, and know its flaws. 70% of PVP battles are done with stun weapons, the other times its either an exceptionally made weapon that has such high DMG that normal resists doesn�t matter, or the person has a trick up his sleeve.

Mostly this is a trail and error based on experience kind of thing to learn, after a while you�ll get the hang of it.

Macro�s : Macro�s are useful in PVP, and thousands have been made, some swear by there macro�s, and claim to have the ultimate macro and so on. Personally I don�t use any extensive macro�s in PVP I will detail a few to give you an idea on how to make your macro. Your imagination will find ways to use your skills I�m sure.

-CoB : Center of Being a frequently used macro by all that have a melee profession, using this skill will increase your chance to dodge/block/counter-attack etc., plus raise your melee and ranged defence a little.

You get this skill at novice brawler, and it will become better and longer as you progress into the elite melee professions. Here is how to make one:

Macro name : CoB
/ui action clearCombatQueue;
/CenterofBeing;
/pause XX (this is found by looking at your CoB duration skill and adding +1 to it for example 36 + 1 would make for a 37 pause)
/macro CoB (this will loop to the macro named CoB)

if you have a slow vid. card or connection and have regular difficulties with lag you may have to switch the CoB macro to CoB duration + 3 to cope with the lag sometimes

-Intimidate : is also a very useful skill in PVP, and I use this macro to use it.

Macro name: intimidate
/ui action clearCombatQueue;
/intimidate

Basically this clears the combat queue immediately, making sure you don�t have to wait until all your spammed attacks have are clear trough till you can intimidate.

-Bleeds : are also useful in PVP not so much for the bleed DMG, but because 40% of the people will try, and stop the bleeding or panic, here�s what I use as a bleed macro.

Macro name: bleed
/ui action clearCombatQueue;
/healtshot1;
/healtshot2;

Yes bleeds do still stack! I�ve confirmed this on several people, and on Mob�s, bleeds will still stack they got nerved on DMG not on stacking, contrary to common belief. Furthermore in PVP I don�t use any macro�s except, that I make a macro for every special I can do and add the line /deathblow to it. Basically this works as a normal attack, but if you can deathblow him it will instantly.

Macro name : Headhit3
/melee2hHeadhit3;
/deathblow;

Seconds are precious in PVP so DON�T waste them using the radial menu to deathblow a person!

-Warcry : Useful is a warcry macro this will buy you time to heal yourself or if you see your opponent run from you to try and kite will give you time to delay him and run your own direction making him come to you ..

Macro name : warcry
/warcry1 ( or 2 )
/peace ( very important or you�ll attack and your warcry will fail )

ToolbarPane : Very important in PVP, is to know your toolbarslot by hart. Make it organised with everything you need on 1 toolbarpane if you need extra room for food and spice, or dismount, burst run etc. don�t put them in your main toolbarpane. Rather make a macro that switches to the next toolbarpane and use the toolbarslot there, then switch back. I�ll give an example.

The slots are numbers from 00-23 like this

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

And the toolbar Pane�s are the number on the top left of the slots ranging from 1 to 6 , each pane will give you a new set of toolbarslots from 00-23

[1] = 00
[2] = 01
[3] = 02
[4] = 03
[5] = 04
[6] = 05

On toolbarpane00, toolbarslot 00- 22 are used by me with attacks and macro�s, 23 is a macro that switches me to toolbapane01. On toolbarpane01, my toolbarslot 00-22 are used for food, emotes and other non essential things on 23 there�s a macro that switches me back to toolbarpane00

Macro name : switch
/ui action toolbarPane01;

Macro name : back
/ui action toolbarPane00;

It is easy, and fast, and will free space used in your main toolbarpane by non-essential things.

Tip : have a macro going to a toolbarPane with IDENTICAL settings to your main PvP pane . because sometimes in all the action you�ll click on the toolbarslots to fast and they�ll act like you dragged 1 slot to another . If this happens hit the button that brings you to the reserve PvP toolbar pane and you�ll be al right instead of adjusting your toolbarPane during combat

Skills & Defences : Skills and defences are very important, and should be known by hart, especially those you can use with your profession, but also generally what other profession have, giving you an insight into what profession your duelling when you see him using an certain attack on you, and thereby giving you a chance to adjust your tactics. I will go over some common defences, because in SWG defence is king, in PVP ALL, defences are capped at 125!! { it is possible to go over this cap with Sea�s (total of 25 in 1 skill ) }

-Melee & ranged defence : These determine if you are hit or not. The higher you have these, the more likely your opponent is to miss you, this is before any other defences kick-in, and in my opinion the most important ones you have. As you can figure ranged works for ranged attacks, melee works for melee attacks.

-Melee & ranged mitigation : Damage mitigation doesn’t reduce the TOTAL damage done to you — it reduces the RANGE of damage that can be done to you. Here’s the breakdown:

Level 1 damage mitigation limits damage to 80% of the range (20% reduction)
Level 2 damage mitigation limits damage to 60% of the range (40% reduction)
Level 3 damage mitigation limits damage to 40% of the range (60% reduction)

Damage mitigation works in both PvE *and* PvP, and it’s a passive ability — you don’t have to activate it.
How does it work, specifically? Let’s take two hypothetical examples, to make it clear using ranged mitigation

SR Combat: 80-140 damage range
Uber Krayt FWG5: 45-425 damage range

The SR’s range is 60 (140 minus 80 = 60), and Ranged Damage Mitigation 3 reduces this by 60%, to 24. The minimum damage is NOT effected, just the range, so the range is now 80-104.

The Krayt’s range is 380 (425 minus 45 = 380), and Ranged Damage Mitigation 3 reduces this by 60%, to 142. The minimum damage is NOT effected, just the range, so the range is now 45-197.

What you should notice, from these examples, is that weapons with a large spread in between their minimum and maximum damage are the hardest hit. Weapons with a very high minimum damage aren’t “mitigated” as much as weapons with a big spread between minimum and maximum damage. In this example, for instance, the Krayt is hit a lot harder than the SR. Before the Damage Mitigation, the average damage of the Krayt was 235, which is around 214 percent higher than the SR. After the Damage Mitigation the average damage of the Krayt is 121 and the average damage of the SR is 92. The Krayt is now only 31 percent stronger than the SR, because the Damage Mitigation reduces its damage far more than it reduces the SR’s damage.

Laser Carbine; 38-264 Damage (151 average) AFTER MITIGATION 3 = 38-128 (83 average),
a 45.0 PERCENT DECREASE
DXR6 Carbine; 97-149 Damage (123 average) AFTER MITIGATION 3 = 97-118 (107.5 average),
a 12.6 PERCENT DECREASE
Laser Rifle: 29-376 Damage (202.5 average) AFTER MITIGATION 3 = 29-168 (98.5 average),
a 51.4 PERCENT DECREASE
T21 Rifle: 118-333 Damage (225.5 average) AFTER MITIGATION 3 = 118-204 (161 average),
a 28.6 PERCENT DECREASE

-Dodge/Block/Counterattack : These defences will kick in after your melee or ranged defence has failed, and your opponent hits you. They give a chance to avoid DMG. They only work if you equip a weapon that is from that profession. For example you will only dodge, if your holding a pistol, or block using a polearm, counterattack using a carbine.

Important to know you can stack these up to 125 by using there melee or ranged clones i.e. pistoleer dodge stacks with fencer dodge, pikeman block, stacks with rifleman block, swordsman counterattack, stacks with carbine counterattack. TKM with defence acuity, have the short straw as that skill is working but doesn�t do anything after some essential parts where removed, from TKM during beta. It works but does nothing Yay! :p Yes this means that you can dodge using any fence weapon or pistol :p

-Melee toughness : This is a DMG reducing skill only melee get, and only if there using a melee weapon. The amount of toughness you have with your weapon of that type. Example: two handed toughness, polearm toughness, unarmed toughness is the % of DMG reduction you�ll get in combat as an extra DMG reducer BEFORE armour reduction , giving melee�s a nice edge in PVP.

Most ranged will �kite� melee�s, then again if your experienced it will become more difficult to kite you, a good melee can keep ranged people from kiting him/her.

-Defence Vs dizzy, stun, blind, etc. : These are useful defences and the higher you have them the more difficult it is for your opponent to make a successful status attack on you. Fencer/pistoleer templates are notorious for there incredible high status defence�s. If you don�t have these an experienced PVP�er will have a huge edge in combat over you, be warned.

-combat equilibrium : This is a skill some melee�s get like TKM, Fencer, that will work automatically if your affected by a posture change attack, restore you to standing whiteout having to fear you�ll flop on your back if your dizzy. If you have this high anyone trying to dizzy/lunge-KD you will try there best and you�ll get up every time laughing.

-Defence Vs posture change : There are 2 kinds, posture change up, or posture change down; most commonly used (90% of the time) is posture change down. Therefore I recommend getting that posture change defence high, the other move will hardly be used on you. So in the off chance it will be used it wont matter to much.

-HAM specific attack skills : These are the ones you have to use in PVP why? Simple, HAM specific moves will concentrate your attack on 1 of his HAM bars, instead of all 3, giving him less chance to regenerate, and will kill him faster.

Mostly used, are attacks that target mind-pool like headshot3, headhit3, but not uncommon are bodyshot2, or bodyhit2. Some use random attack to good effect, it mostly depends on your template, and your style. I know people using random hits like scatter hit or fanshot and can still be very effective in PVP.

It all depends on how you play, experience will teach you what to do.

-Accuracy : :This will determine if you hit your opponent, it�s based on your accuracy vs. his melee, or ranged defence. After that another factor involved is his special dodge/block/counterattack (I don�t know the exact formula but the general rule applies, the higher the better.

-Speed : In PVP you will want to have you speed as high as possible, because it will affect how fast you�ll do your special attacks. Example, a pistol with a 3.4 speed, with a skill of 40 on pistol speed won�t shoot at the speed cap of 1 second, instead being closer to 2 seconds. Usually you can get the formula to calculate this on your profession specific forums, seeing as it varies from profession to profession.

*The young man woke up, grass still sticking to his face. He had fallen asleep during his sensei�s lecture and was now looking around his senses startled by something*

I see you are awake young one, was my lecture so boring? Oh well no use in repeating myself if you seem so set on fighting let me teach it to you the hard way.

*He had heard that his sensei was a warrior to be recon with, 20 years ago. Now all he saw was an old woman past her prime standing with her walking-cane in hand like a sword*

But, sensei surely I can�t attack you, if you got hurt, I mean, I am grateful you�re willing to teach me but I can�t fight you.

*A smile blossomed on her face*

So, you think me weak, and old, not capable of fighting now do you? Has your short lifetime thought you all you need to know to judge your opponent�s? Now has it. Hum, very impressive. Let me put it this way, if you don�t take your sword to your hand and attack me, you can go home now I have nothing further to teach you!

*Hesitantly, the young man took his sword in hand, and walked across to his sensei, figuring that if he would faint left, and then reverse hitting her walking-cane and spinning her on the floor would be enough and wouldn�t hurt her too much*

Ok sensei, its your choice…

*They position themselves across from each other, each in battle stance, the young man with his sword in a frontal down position, and the old woman with her cane across her hip linear with her other leg. They stood still for seconds that felt like hours*

Here I come…

*The young man shouts at her, lunges forward, and just as he faints left he sees a smile on his sensei�s face. She spins around out of the way, faster then he can follow as he feels the pain of the cane on his back he suddenly realises he did exactly what she had wanted him to do. He had lost the first moment he had attacked*

And so we come to the next chapter Combat. I thank you all for reading this far, and hope it was useful, or helpful. Now comes some insights and common knowledge about combat.

Combat :

Combat is a hard and difficult topic seeing as each person has his or her way of doing combat. I will just try and touch some useful tips, and hints. Just advice as I have said before, I am not telling you this is how you should do it, I�m trying to help you develop your own idea�s, and inform you of things you might not have known.

-Terrain : Terrain very helpful if used correctly, this can help with preventing people from �kiting� you or just help you hide to heal or meditate. It can help you sneak up on enemies too.

I�ll give some examples: Buildings can be used to run into if you have a ranged opponent kiting you. Making him come to you, in a small and un-manuverable location and then closing in on him, or just go from building to building in and out again while going trough town looking for enemies.

Some will see a red dot on there HUD radar but they still need to target you, if you sneak a peek around a corner you can see them, before they can see you. Using tab key they can target you, but don�t worry. Try and lure 1 or 2 out from there group by just teasing at a corner of a building, eventually they�ll follow if they bring there group, go back, run, and return. Taking on entire groups is to much, but 2 to 3 is possible, if your good.

Know your city, if your PVPing in a imp city as imperial, know where to pull your opponents to have the NPC�s attack them. While not lethal, it will distract them playing into your hand. If reversed your PVPing as imp in a rebel city know which places to avoid so they don�t pull some bothersome NPC�s on you, and mainly let them come to you!!

Control the battle, never let yourself be taunted by the others. Once you give away the rains of control, you give them 1 more step to victory. Use slopes and hills to your advantage, as a ranged person, some melee templates don�t have terrain negotiation if you see that use it. If they come to close, run up a hill and see them fall all the way back. Use Burst run ONLY if your opponents uses it, otherwise at crucial times when your in trouble you won�t have it, and your opponent might.

PVPing in player cities is fun too, as you have more slopes an hills to use and if its your town you might have a factional base that provides a good support and an added difficulty for the attackers, and turrets if used correctly can decimate an entire army.

Basically terrain means use everything to your advantage, like NPC�s, Mob�S, hill�s, slopes, factional bases, etc. The world is your playing field, be inventive, and you�ll think of more ways to use/abuse the terrain.

-Know your opponent : If you PVP you�ll soon encounter the same people over, and over, those are usually the hardcore PVP�ers that will often seems as gods, compared to you when you first start off in PVPing. Sometimes by skills, mostly by experience, they will walk all over you, and you�ll be a small bump on their road to glory.

Use this time to see what they do, how they work. PVP teams usually consist of the same people, using the same tactic, over and over. very rarely changing because a lack of competition has made them, to self-confident or lazy. Most players play using a pattern.

If you can identify that pattern you can use it. Good players don�t play by pattern, they will change frequently always in motion. Those are the hardest opponents you�ll ever meet .They are unpredictable relying on instinct, experience, and by reading your moves. These are the most fun to fight. NEVER assume you�ll win. Always, at the very least think of your opponent as your equal, in skill and abilities, that way you wont be surprised if he puts up a fight. Even the smallest child can have a lucky break and stab you in the gut.

A good thing is to size up your opponent, do little burst attacks, and see how he reacts. Attacking and running, and see what he does. This can give you a reasonable picture of your enemy, true combat isn�t decided by muscles or weapons, but by using one�s mind.

-Defensive playing will win the day : Playing on offence is not an unheard of tactic but has a major flaw; if your opponent is startled or panicked by your attack he�ll react and you�ll die. Defensive playing will keep you alive to fight again, this also means, show your opponent NO RELIEF. Honourable combat was a term created by those who where defeated in combat to try and get a second chance to stab you in the back.

True warriors understand that there is no relief from battle except death and that by giving your opponent a worthy death, you have given him peace of mind and of soul. If you live every day, prepared to die, each extra day you get is a bonus, and a gift from heaven.

Strike, run, strike, and run. Common tactics used by several fighting factions throughout the ages. Why? because it works. You go in strike at the hart of your opponent, kill him, and or one of his group members, run back out regroup, and strike again. Unrelenting, never the same way, be as a wolf hunting if you see a flaw exploit it to your advantage.

Be sure to play it safe, and defensive, use your Food, your armour, and your skills. Make it so that if they want to get you, they have to work for it. Who cares if someone can do 700 DMG, if you play it defensively, that 700 DMG will be reduced to 50 DMG, and your not so all mighty 350 DMG, will eventually win the day. Think, before you act, and act before react.

-Kiting & defence against kiting : Kiting is done by a ranged profession, by staying at max range, out of a melee�rs combat range. Thereby making any attempts of the melee�er useless because he can�t hit the ranged person. This is a valid tactic and if used properly, useful to deal with the medium, and lower skilled players. Against the good and really good player thought, it wont work, most of the time. There are several ways to defend Vs kiting.

One example is use lunge attacks, causing the opponent to kneel, getting you in range for an attack. Running around corners, or into building so the ranged opponent has to follow you if he wants to kill you. Also burst run to him, although I don�t like this particular choice.

If you think of it, there are hundreds of ways to avoid being kited. In time you�ll develop your own cure against it, or in time you�ll perfect your kiting technique so that others can�t protect against it.

-Status attacks : These will often make a combat easy. Examples are, a doctor that�s blinded can�t heal group members, a dizzied opponent that posture changes does the back-flip on the floor while you hit him, and a intimidated opponent does 33% less DMG on you. As you can see, its useful use it to your advantage.

Blind : Your opponent won�t hit you as often because his accuracy will be reduced + he also wont be able to heal others.

Dizzy : This will give your opponent a hard time if he tried to kneel or stand or if you force him to kneel or stand by using posture change attacks like lunge or KD (Knock Down)

Intimidated : Your opponent�s DMG will be reduced, thus making you take less DMG.

Warcry : This will pause your opponent for 10 seconds at warcry 1 or 20 seconds at warcry 2 giving you time to heal or run basically buying you time to do something this pause will break if you attack him though!

-Group tactics : Not much to say about this. Find people you enjoy playing with, go PVP regularly work out ways to optimize your attacks together. Use someone as support that heals, a main person that chooses the targets, and everyone assists him on his target etc. Use someone else to lure others into a trap, where the rest of the group can jump him.

The more imagination you use the better you�ll become. Be warned if you do this in groups, the weakest of your group is never given important tasks, because if you count on him/her, and they die, then your royally *censored* up your special place.

-DoT weapons : This is used to combat people with heavy buffs or massive food stats stacking .. a mindpoison combined with a disease or fire or even another poison from another weapon will counter there sometimes insane regen and even if your dmg is minimal you�ll be able to kill your opponent , added bonus is some people will panic if there poisoned /diseased /fire and panic is always good to take advantage from

Warning !! Fire Dots will incap don�t use em in friendly duels or versus friends if they have a long duration or if your friend has already been incapped 2 times or he�ll die 3times from incap and will suffer decay ..

-DMG : Understand how DMG works. All weapons have an armour-pierce rating from none to, light to, medium to heavy armour-pierce. Realise if you PVP and use a weapon with no armour-pierce you�ll do ridiculous low DMG.

Also understand that if someone uses a weapon on you with a higher armour-pierce rating then your armour, they get a DMG bonus, but are still affected by your resists on the armour.

Example the young man shoots the old woman for 600 DMG with his T-21 rifle, the old woman in her composite gets hit. The fist stage is AR vs. AP. The T21 is heavy armour-pierce the composite is light armour so the T-21 gets a bonus to the DMG done (not sure how much though) but let�s say 700 DMG. Now the old woman has 90% resists on her composite so the young man eventually does 70 DMG to the woman.

ARMORRATING and RESISTS are SEPERATE stages of DMG reduction!! I cant stress this enough, remarkably there are allot of people that don�t know this out there. 65% of all weapons are light armour-pierce, 25% medium, 9% none, and 1% heavy. Get to know the weapons so you can adjust. In the right conditions, if you adjust, you will come out on top.
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Hunting Creatures Solo:

Note: If you need cash of course take missions and apply these principals on your mission target. I won’t be going into missions any further except to say, do as many as you can before you become numb from boredom. The cash comes in handy.

Non-Aggressive Creatures:

Non-aggressive creatures are much easier to kill than aggressive ones for one simple reason: you can herd non-aggressive creatures.

Dewbacks are a great example. If you run across a lair of Dewbacks you’ll notice that they are all bunched together. If you attack one, another is sure to come with it. Its the old bring-a -friend syndrome.

To disperse the group simply approach the herd until about 40 meters away. You’ll know you�re there when the question marks pop up above the creature’s heads. Then walk slowly up to within melee distance and watch them run. Simply herd on away from the main group and have you way with him. Rinse and repeat.

Aggressive Creatures:

This tactic works with non-aggressive creatures as well. The drawback is it takes patience.

Approach the creatures you wish to kill slowly until you see the question marks appear above their heads (about 40 meters). Then wait. The group will slowly start to disperse.

If there is a scout in the group, do you best to stay away from it. If you engage it, it will run back to the lair and bring of bunch of friends with it to kill you.

Wait until a non scout is approx 14-20 meters away from the rest of the group and target it using the tactics mentioned above. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the mobs. Don’t forget to destroy the lair when you are done as the devs have finally added exp back to the lairs.

Other Skills:

As you gain more skills you will get better at masking your scent and will eventually acquire /warning shot, another helpful ability that sends your target scurrying in the other direction. Warning shot is most helpful in a group when you pull too many mobs. Its useful to designate a group member or two to be the crowd controllers and fire off a warning shot whenever the group gets adds. But that’s another guide altogether.

Editorial:

The game in its current state allows for some interesting tactics. This guide touches on just the most efficient for soloing, but that�s not how I like to play. I like to group. And currently the game is completely unfriendly to those of us that like to take a group of 20 mates out on a giant Kryat hunt or other expedition.

We need to know that if we find a Kryat and run back to town to gather a group to kill it (which can take as long as a half hour in itself) that the mob will not de-spawn before we get back.

We need to know that there are places out there where we stand a very, very good chance of finding a mob of a certain type. If I had a dime for the number of times I’ve dragged my furry wookiee ass out to the Kryat graveyard and found nothing but worrts I could probably do my laundry.

We need scout exp to be dispersed throughout the entire group. I’m sooo tired of listening to people whine about who gets to harvest next. Keeping a loot list of who gets next harvest is not my idea of fun, and yet here I am dealing with Timmy the scout who’s mad at me and whining that he didn�t get his turn to harvest.

We need BETTER MOBS. I can’t emphasize this enough. Nerfing the exp for killing a Kryat isn’t enough, making Giant Worrts harder isn�t the answer either. We need mobs that have special abilities that we don’t, that are impervious to anything except Mind attacks. Let you imagination run wild.

We need more cool skills. Rangers should get a “Target the pool that has the least HP” ability. Or hell, give that to the TK artist along with some defensive skills. Postures that stop creatures from attacking prone group members need to finally be implemented as well.

I could go on and on but this is a start. Notice I’m not sitting here saying I’m going to leave the game cause it sucks. I’m also not just bitching about changes because I played for a couple hours and made some snap judgments.

Quite a few people know about these but hardly any that I see actually use these abilities to their full potential.

Both commands make a mob confused and basically keep them from aggroing on you while you shoot them – hopefully until they die.

The key here is that both abilities STACK. Mask Scent is by far more powerful, but when used with threaten shot you can take down white con mobs with ease and often yellow and red cons will to this tactic as well.

The major variable that determines success with this tactic is your choice of weapon. You’ll want to pick out a high damage per second rifle, carbine or pistol if you want to survive. If the choice is between a high damage/low speed weapon and a low damage/high speed weapon with around the same DPS, go with the latter. It helps to have a few more shots when the mob finally aggros on you in case you miss.

Before you attack any Mob solo you should perform these steps. EVERY TIME.

1) Get within 55 meters if you are a rifleman (with other ranged weapons, find the max distance they will function and subtract 10 meters. This will give you a nice cushion). This allows for the MOB to run away from you while you are shooting it and not fall out of range. This is also important because the game rolls against your mask scent each time a mob goes out of and back into range. If mask scent fails during this roll you will probably die, so give yourself a nice cushion.

2) /maskscent.

3) Go prone

4) Use /threatenshot.

5) Blast away

Hunting Creatures Solo:

Note: If you need cash of course take missions and apply these principals on your mission target. I won’t be going into missions any further except to say, do as many as you can before you become numb from boredom. The cash comes in handy.

Non-Aggressive Creatures:

Non-aggressive creatures are much easier to kill than aggressive ones for one simple reason: you can herd non-aggressive creatures.

Dewbacks are a great example. If you run across a lair of Dewbacks you’ll notice that they are all bunched together. If you attack one, another is sure to come with it. Its the old bring-a -friend syndrome.

To disperse the group simply approach the herd until about 40 meters away. You’ll know you�re there when the question marks pop up above the creature’s heads. Then walk slowly up to within melee distance and watch them run. Simply herd on away from the main group and have you way with him. Rinse and repeat.

Aggressive Creatures:

This tactic works with non-aggressive creatures as well. The drawback is it takes patience.

Approach the creatures you wish to kill slowly until you see the question marks appear above their heads (about 40 meters). Then wait. The group will slowly start to disperse.

If there is a scout in the group, do you best to stay away from it. If you engage it, it will run back to the lair and bring of bunch of friends with it to kill you.

Wait until a non scout is approx 14-20 meters away from the rest of the group and target it using the tactics mentioned above. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the mobs. Don’t forget to destroy the lair when you are done as the devs have finally added exp back to the lairs.

Other Skills:

As you gain more skills you will get better at masking your scent and will eventually acquire /warning shot, another helpful ability that sends your target scurrying in the other direction.

If you are fighting a hard mob (yellow or red) using the tactics above and feel that it is about to aggro on you, fire off a /warning shot and mask scent again and re-engage.

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This was originally posted in the SWG beta forums.

Here�s a guide I wrote for our members at BHSS. I share it with you now in the spirit of community building and crass self promotion.

This is required reading. Come release if you group with me and don’t know this stuff, expect to be ridiculed, to be called a n00b stain and to have Jonus craft you a handicapped sign that will adorn your sig on all of your future posts. Forever.

The Basics

1) Mask Scent – threaten shot – is the holy trinity of tactics and the basis of all ranged combat in SWG (IMO). You must know how this works to group effectively. Read my guide to soloing for an in depth discussion of the tactic.

Note: Mask Scent is NOT broken. I�ve seen ppl complaining about this. The Devs have changed the radius at which your use of mask scent is checked against. Now if the mob wanders outside of a 45 meter radius your scent mask is checked against and may fail.

The solution: Get to around 40 meters before engaging a creature and make sure you have a rifle with a sweet spot in that range.

{Editorial} Make the radius 50 meters, Devs. I know you are trying to balance, but 40 meters is just too close. {/editorial}

Group Composition

Anyone with a gun can help, but those with warning shot (Top Ranged Support box in Marksman) can help even more. Right now brawlers serve little purpose except as insurance when the mob breaks the mask scent – threaten shot (MS – TS) mez and charges the group.

The thing is this problem can be easily dealt with by warning shot-ing the creature or NPC away. Hopefully future mobs will need to be stunned and blinded to become vulnerable to ranged attacks, or some such tactic so that brawlers will be indispensable.

You’ll also need someone with scout skills for camps, a medic for wounds and for dealing with incaps (if you stim an incaped person they will wake up immediately), and now it seems a crafter to repair weapons since the #1 damage dealing special, overcharge shot, now degrades your weapons condition. Entertainers are nice, but unless all your rifleman are seriously wounded in their mind pool, not really necessary.

And you’ll need me, a smart Squad Leader to guide you through the battle

Warning shot

Don�t go grouping seriously on Dathomir, Lok, Endor et all without it. The single pull tactics mentioned in my Guide to Soloing still work for pick up groups of low skill, but to make any headway on the new planets you need crowd controllers, which means you need /warning shot.

A quick recap on warning shot: It sends the animal fleeing the other way. Pulling with it is dangerous (since Bring-a-friend ((BAF)) is very common on the new planets) but a good puller, or one with help from others in the group with warning shot, can disperse the mobs around a lair very effectively. I even use this tactic soloing, but I don’t recommend it. You will probably die quite a bit. Stick to the safer methods of breaking up lairs in my Guide to soloing.

{Editorial} Devs: Don’t Nerf Warning shot! {/Editorial}

Hot Keys – What to have at hand for easy access

You have 9 or 10 (I forget) rows of 24 hot keys. Make use of them. Establish one row as your grouping row and add these hotkeys to it along with your postures and your special skills. You don�t need sit in this row or forage or heal wound (possibly heal damage depending on your role in the group) or survey or dance etc.

Make sure you have Peace hot keyed.
——————————————–
This is so very important. When a mob is being /warning shot away and YOU SHOOT IT, it WILL COME BACK, much to the dismay of the puller, and the group. This is my #1 pet peeve and you will draw my ire if you do this. You will forever be branded “special” and will be given a handicapped sign to prove it.
See below for more discussion.

Make sure you have overcharge shot (if you are ranged) hot keyed
——————————————————————————-
Normal attacks hit for crap now, and overcharge shot takes little to no health action and mind points to use. Therefore, MASH/SPAM overcharge shot to dispatch most mobs in the shortest amount of time (I know, I know it depends on the HAM bars, Ill get to that).

The new drawback will be that overcharge shot damages your weapon.

The solution: Looks like someone is going to have to make a crafting/combat hybrid for us to eradicate the all force sensitive witches on Dathomir in one raid.

{Editorial} Don’t go overboard with the damage done with overcharge shot to our guns devs! It is the main reason we can kill greens and feel like we are actually progressing in this game since you scaled back the damage modifier last week {/editorial}

Pulling from a lair/POI/Stronghold

On the new planets certain things are true that are not true on the starting ones. Dathomir and Endor for instance are so dense with mobs and foliage that picking off solo mobs is very difficult.

When you warning shot a beast or NPC you think is far enough away from the group to bring it solo, just expect a couple more to aggro and be ready to warning shot them away. Having a couple crowd controllers helping the main puller is very helpful, and often times required.

The important thing is that the group understands that they MUST NOT shoot at any other mob than the one that should be chasing its tail 45 meters away. This is the one the main puller shot with mask scent on and opened with threaten shot. This is the safe mob and it should be your target.

The ones that charge the group ARE NONE OF THE GROUPS CONCERN. They will be warning shot away. If it is on you, simply wait until a crowd controller gets it off of you. DO NOT ENGAGE THE CHARGING MOBS.

There is a bug in warning shot right now where the mob who is warning shot may not flee, but may just stand there, basically rooted. If this is the case, simply back away from the mob and keep shooting at the original target. The crowd controllers will take care of the stunned mob.

Killing Mobs quickly

Most of this is just theory right now until we can get up high enough in the specialized tiers to target specific pools with numbers but here is how I see it playing out.

Open with Overcharge shots every time to soften the Mob up.

If there is a HAM bar that is clearly smaller than the rest, or one that by chance was randomly targeted during the opening softening, have the proper ranged professionals Damage Over Time (DOT) it with say Mindshot 2, then proceed to, in this example Headshot it. All the others in the group can continue with overcharge shots until dead.

We haven�t seen any boss mobs yet and most of the higher level mobs I�ve encountered will fall to simple zerg tactics once they have been pulled solo and engaged while masked and threatened.
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What to harvest?

Depends on what you want to do with it. As a scout, creating camps requires more hides then bones, traps are 50/50. Bone armour that armour smiths make also takes more hides then bones. In general, harvest hides three times for every two times you get bones. There�s not really an economy for meat, but as I�ve heard medics use it to craft their medicine. If you�ve got a good number of hides and bones, grab some meat as well to tip the guy that will be healing your permanent wounds when you get back.

An animal doesn’t always have the same stuff available. A Vynock on Corellia will give you maybe 1 or 2 bones, but 12 or 13 hides. Once you get a feel for what type of creature is best for what type of resource, it’s good to forget about ratios and maximize your overall harvest. To get the ratio you want, just hunt different creatures that you know have major resources in the areas you�re looking for.

If you have the patience to do it, try jotting down on a piece of paper the type and class of hides/bones/meat you harvest from the creature you�ve slain. For crafting purposes, you need ingredients of the same type and class, the ones that stack in your inventory. So when you’re out hunting specifically for a certain hide, it’s good to have a small database with what creatures you’ll need to kill. Once the NDA lifts, someone will probably make a full database public, but until then, it’s handy to have.

- To camp or not to camp?

Setting up a camp will do three things. First, it will speed up your healing. Second, it will give you Wilderness Survival XP. Third, it will take bones and hides. You can set up camp after every creature, but unless you hunt stuff that has a lot of resources to harvest, that will deplete your stock fast. If you�re not too beat up, say about half-way, just sit down and wait for your temporary damage to heal a bit. If you�re almost dead, set up camp and whip out the marshmallows. If you�re almost dead after every kill you make, switch to something less dangerous or camp only once for every 3 camps you can make from the resources you�ve gathered. You�re hunting for XP AND resources to use and sell, so make sure you leave and go to bed with both.

Killing things

- Live and let die

Sometimes you want to kill stuff, other times you�re gonna want to leave it alone. Examine a creature from 50m away to find out if it�s aggressive or not, and if it�s tameable. If it�s one of the small tameable creatures, you�re going to get exactly 0 XP of any kind for killing it, and the harvest is very poor. Unless it�s an aggressive creature that attacks you when you kill one in the group, you might as well leave them alone for the creature handlers to find and get.

Packs. Almost all creatures spawn in groups, flocks, troops, packs, etc. Good to know is that some creatures will help out their family when one of them gets attacked, other creatures will flee from the danger that is you and leave their brothers and sisters to die at the reward of their living a minute or two longer before you get to them. If a creature is examined as aggressive, chances are the whole pack will gank you if you take one. You can still get them one by one using a technique called Pulling. The basic of this is that you sit at your ranged weapon�s maximum range, kneel and attack one of them. They�re get annoyed and come kill you, and most of the time they�ll come alone. However, I�m a brawler myself and therefore the only pulling I do is their hair. Please don�t PK me if it doesn�t work

Always remember, you can go around creatures and leave them be. If you encounter a pack of slice hounds by yourself, they�ll attack you if you get within 30-40 metres and they won�t be afraid to come all at once. You WILL die. When a red arrow pops up on your radar, hold up, target and see what creature it is. If it�s an aggressive animal, determine if you want to attack it, and go around or combat as appropriate.

- Killing packs

So what�s a sure-fire way of taking out a pack without them all taking you on or them fleeing in all directions? (Very annoying, unless you pay close attention to where each of them goes, chances are you�ll miss one)
Patience, patience is key, the lock, the locksmith, the key maker and the whole damn door. I�ve taken out by myself a group of 6 Savage Humbaba dark blue cons that help each other when attacked and are aggressive within about 25 metres. A pack is usually close together when you first get to them, so the trick is to lure one of them away. I�m not entirely sure if it works as I think it does, but it was pretty consistent. Once I got within 50-60 metres, the ones lying down would stand up. Once I got within 40 metres of the closest one, it would start walking in my general direction. I circled about 30 metres to the side and when it was at the position I was in when it started walking, I attacked. The others didn�t see, didn�t hear, and didn�t come to their friend�s aid. Sometimes one of them will just walk a distance away by itself, other times you just gotta get into its smelling range and wait for it. You can consistently get one of the pack by patience and luring.

- the basics of creature combat one on one.

As a low-level, you want to stay on the starting planets for now, and you’ll probably have a hell of a time within 200m of the city you start in. There will be basic animals around that con blue or light blue to you, and they can already take a lot out of you. You’ll probably not even be thinking about getting out there earning major XP, because ‘out there’ are nothing but white cons, the ones you can’t take, and you�ll get plenty in the near vicinity.
Stick to the basic areas first and find yourself a preferred way of taking out a creature.

If you’re a ranged attacker, you don’t have that much to worry about initially. Target and attack (this is a good time to use an overpowered shot, the extra power is good and the delay to the next shot is not relevant because the creature won’t be near you until the delay is gone)
What you DON’T want to do at all when a creature is within roughly 8 metres is run. Creatures can and will do damage while you are running, and you will fire less accurately. Switch to point blank shooting and take them out, harvest, heal and move on.

If you�re a brawler, you�re looking at a lot of down-time for the even matches and a little more then usual for light blues. You�ll be in range of the enemy all the time, and you�ll get hit a LOT. Your battle fatigue will get high pretty fast because of it. Once you start dealing low damage and missing a lot, it�s time to call off the hunt for a while and find a dancer or musician to get rid of that battle fatigue. You�ll be facing this at low levels more then at high, and at low levels you�ll usually be within a kilometre of a cantina, so it�s not much of a problem. Where a ranged attacker has little choice, you are blessed with a few different ways of killing. However, one is not that much more rewarding then the other and does take a lot of patience. But if you�re a hardcore role player, it�s fun to do.

Get to about 20 metres of a creature and for god sakes please don�t run, walk. Running will scare the creatures away from 30m, walking will only scare them within 15 or so.

Now that you�re almost in range, decide how you want to get into actual range. Either dash into lunge range (the creature will be scared away, but it�ll take longer for it to realise the danger and start running then it�ll take for you to run 5 metres) and lunge at it, thereby convincing it you need to die and fight from there.

Alternatively, mask your scent if you can, get to its back, go prone, and start crawling. If you�re lucky, you can get to point blank range without it caring. This takes oodles of time and there�s little need to get to point blank range because you can get to lunge range a lot faster and then run to point blank when it wants to kill you. As I said, reward vs. cost is a bitch on this method, but it is kinda fun to do.

You levelled up, now what

- combat at medium and high levels

There�s really not much difference in taking on a creature at higher levels besides the type of creature you hunt and how far you need to get out of the city. I�ve put a second lock on the door and the key for that one is special moves. E.g. as a one-handed sword brawler, you can do 40 health, 40 action and 40 mind damage. Or you can do a one-handed body hit and do all 120 on their health pool. You get pool-focussed special moves at intermediate levels for all melee weapons, use them. A ranged attacker also gets a choice of which pool to attack specifically pretty soon in their tree. A creature dies when one of it�s pools is depleted, so forget about the other two.
Where as a low level hunter, you were taking on blue and light blue cons, you can probably solo white�s by now. As a brawler you�re going to have a tougher time, but you might succeed.

- where do I find higher level creatures?

Easy, the further you get from a city to higher the creatures tend to get, but there is a maximum. As a medium level brawler, I ventured all the way from Daola Guebar (top right city on Corellia) to Kor Vella (top left city on Corellia), and I saw nothing but blue�s and whites. I was joined by a friend, we grouped, and still nothing but whites for one dark jedi exception. There is no way to get higher level creatures then those that spawn in the wild for you other then finding a tougher planet, or grouping with a few other mid-levels.

Groups

As a hunter, you will have Scout and one or more combat professions. As a scout, it is your job to examine the creatures and determine if they are aggressive or not, and ideally, you�re the kinda guy that knows which creatures are worth attacking, and which best left alone. It is your job together with the other scouts in your group to provide the group with camps once there are a bunch of heavily wounded about. It is your privilege to harvest the kills the group makes. Those jobs and privileges are not yours alone, they are there for every scout in your group. Try to find out which members of the group are scouts and would like to harvest and set up camps to get their XP. Not all scouts need the XP anymore, and if you�re a high level, leave it to the newbies. You can get plenty XP on your own, while the new players are in desperate need. Again, feel free to take a piece of paper, jot down the names of the scouts and keep an order in who gets to harvest or set up camp next. If the group you�re in isn�t patient enough to arrange stuff like that before they go out, it�s not the kind of group you want to be in anyway.
Again, remember to wait your turn and give others theirs. The biggest issue with groups these days besides not following the leader�s orders to the letter is scouts bickering over who gets to harvest or set up camps.

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What is a carbine?

The carbines are one of the most misunderstood range of firearms in SWG. Rifles are the kings of long-range, high-damage shots. Pistols are all about rapid fire and close quarters. Carbines fit somewhere in the middle. They lack the style and finesse of the pistols, or the really flashy one-shot kill abilities of the rifles, but they are one of the most solid and reliable damage-givers out there. They are a soldiers weapon. Carbines just sit there quietly racking up reasonably high-damage shots at a reasonable pace time after time after time. If you compared the 3 weapons lines and their damage output over the course of a minute, the carbines would very likely outshine its more flashy cousins.

While pistols tend to focus on the health pool, and rifles the mind pool, carbines score heavily on the action pool. At lower levels there are 3 main attack styles…..

Leg shot: Minimal health damage, but punishes the action pool very badly and stuns the target. The attack of choice for the solo carbineer.
Full Auto Single: A barrage of shots on a single target, good health damage and temporary blinding effect. Mainly used in support within groups.
Action Shot: A low damage shot, with a high bleed effect on the action pool. A good opening shot.

As I am still a relatively low level carbineer I can’t comment on the effectiveness of the carbineer skills.

There are 8 carbine models to choose from. So let’s take a look at the options.

CDEF Carbine
Skills required: None
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: Average
Average Damage: Very Low
Short Range: average
Medium Range: good @ 40m
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: low
Armour Rating: 0

To be frank, you might as well hold this one by the barrel and start hitting things with the handle. Would be about as effective.

Can be a reasonable choice for a non-combat class with no marksman skills. Anyone else, upgrade ASAP.

DH17 Carbine
Skills required: Novice Marksman
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: average
Average Damage: low / average
Short Range: average
Medium Range: good
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: very high
Armour Rating: 0

If you are venturing down any path that requires the carbine tree, get one of these as soon as possible when you start. Their minimal skill requirements make them a great starting weapon. Their damage, while not fantastic, is reasonable and with a relatively low variance and a 3-4 sec rate of fire will take care of most things at a low level. Their major drawback is their huge HAM costs for weapon styles. You can find yourself out of health AND action within 5 or 6 shots, and can leave you very vulnerable to a quick incap. The other major drawback is it looks like a CDEF, yuck!

DH17 Snubnose Carbine
Skills required: Intermediate Carbine
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: average
Average Damage: low / average
Short Range: good
Medium Range: average
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: high
Armour Rating: 0

This is a very similar weapon to the regular DH17, but more geared for closer combat. Slightly more powerful, slighty faster than it’s cousin, it’s less effective at any sort of range, meaning you spend more time at close quarters with your foe and taking more damage as a result. While the HAM costs are slightly lower than the regular DH17, they are still high and can lead to an easy kill for your opponent.

E11 Carbine
Skills required: Advanced Carbine
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: average
Average Damage: average
Short Range: poor
Medium Range: average @ 30m
Long Range: very poor
HAM costs: average
Armour Rating: 1

This is Mr. Average. While a better overall rate of fire and damage than the DH17 family, it suffers badly in terms of accuracy. Almost everything (apart from accuracy) about this weapon is average. It even looks and sounds like an average gun. If this weapon is worthwhile getting at advanced carbine, when you can get a laser at expert carbine if questionable as a DH17 would still suffice. At this level few mobs have any real armour, so while the light armour piercing is nice it is questionable how useful it is.

Laser Carbine
Skills required: Expert Carbine
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: High
Average Damage: Good
Short Range: poor
Medium Range: good @ 50m
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: average
Armour Rating: 2

The first of the really effective carbines. In its behaviour this is more akin to the rifle family. It is more effective at range than most carbines, but suffers close up. It has a good average damage and around a 4 second delay between shots, but a very very wide variance. You can easily hit for 700 damage one shot, then 45 the next leaving you up the creek. This will rack up good damage in a given time frame, but is erratic on each shot. Where the laser carbine really scores is its armour piercing capability. Only the T21 rifle has a higher armour piercing capability than the Laser Carbine.
This is a great choice to open up with at long range when you need to and for tackling heavily armoured foes. Also, it looks good too.

EE3 Carbine
Skills required: Carbine Specialist
Damage Type: Heat
Damage variance: Low
Average Damage: Good
Short Range: average
Medium Range: good @25m
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: average
Armour Rating: 0

What can I say about this baby. It’s a shotgun, pure and simple. With a high damage, low variance, a high rate of fire (3.5 secs), and a 6ft blast area it is one of the most solid and consistant damage dealers out there. It has some problems with low accuracy at range in comparison to the other carbines, but at medium range and up close, this thing just cuts through the mobs like a knife through butter. One warning however, as it is an area-effect weapon, be very careful when pulling in tighly packed mobs, you may get more than you bargained for.

The two major drawbacks of this is no real armour piercing ability, which can reduce its effectiveness in PVP or on high level mobs, and it’s inaccuracy at long range. This is a real workhorse and a very solid weapon.

DXR6 Carbine
Skills required: Carbine Specialist
Damage Type: Acid
Damage variance: Low
Average Damage: High
Short Range: average / good
Medium Range: good @22m
Long Range: very poor
HAM costs: average
Armour Rating: 1

This is the EE3′s bigger and meaner brother. A short range, 2 handled shotgun. High damage, low variance and high speed make this the close combat weapon of choice for the carbineer. With the addition of light armour piercing and a relatively rare damage type, this also makes it a great PvP weapon, as most people will be looking for armour with high energy, heat and kinetic defences.
The only major drawback with this weapon is its accuracy at long distance, which is frankly piss poor. Nevertheless, this is an essential part of any carbineer’s gear.

Ant it looks and sounds great too.

Elite Carbine
Skills required: Novice Carbineer
Damage Type: Energy
Damage variance: Low
Average Damage: High
Short Range: poor
Medium Range: very good @40m
Long Range: poor
HAM costs: average
Armour Rating: 1

The grand-daddy of the carbines, only available to the dedicated Carbineer. Yet for such a pedigree it’s slightly disappointing.

Like the DXR6 it has a good rate of fire, high damage, low varience and reasonable HAM costs. Also it has light armour piercing. While it may score well with it’s accuracy at mid-range, close up its accuracy is pretty terrible. Also it is of a damage type everyone seeks to have good defences against. It is still a good weapon, and a very solid damage dealer, but I frankly expected more as the top carbine.

Overall recommendations:

PvE: EE3 and Laser Carbine.
Good solid weapons, with different damage types and armour piercing. Enough to handle the variety of mobs out there. Also cheap enough to replace as PvE weapons wear out quickly.
PVP: DXR6 and Elite Carbine
High damage, fast weapons, with enough armour piercing to punch through player wearable armour. Still keep a laser carb handy in case an AT-ST shows up. I would only use these for PvP as they are expensive to replace, not your weekday weapons.

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First of all, I’m going to list the various Melee weapons that a Weaponsmith can make, followed by the level of skill a Brawler requires to wield it
properly, and the level of skill that a Weaponsmith needs to make it. I will be using the numbers 0-5, 0 meaning Novice, 1-4 being Intermediate through
Specialist level, and 5 being Master.

Unarmed Weapons (yes, it’s an oxymoron)

Vibro Knucklers, (No Cert required), Weaponsmith 2

One-Handed Weapons

Survival Knife, (No Cert required), Artisan 0

Dagger, Brawler 0, Artisan 3

Sword, Brawler 1, Weaponsmith 0

Gaderiffi Baton, Brawler 1, Weaponsmith 1

Curved Sword, Brawler 1, Weaponsmith 2

Vibroblade, Brawler 2, Weaponsmith 3

Ryyk Blade, Brawler 3, Weaponsmith 3

Stun Baton, Fencer 0, Weaponsmith 4

Two-Handed Weapons

Heavy Axe, (No Cert Required), Artisan 4

Two-Handed Axe, Brawler 1, Weaponsmith 1

Two-Handed Cleaver, Brawler 2, Weaponsmith 4

Vibro Axe, Brawler 3, Weaponsmith 4

Two-Handed Curved Sword, Brawler 4, Weaponsmith 3

Power Hammer, Swordsman 0, Weaponsmith 5

Polearm Weapons

Wood Staff, (No Cert Required), Artisan 1

Reinforced Combat Staff, Brawler 1, Artisan 3

Lance, Brawler 2, Weaponsmith 1

Long Vibro Axe, Brawler 3, Weaponsmith 5

Vibro Lance, Pikeman 0, Weaponsmith 4

As you may have noticed, there are quite a few weapons which the Brawlers can use very early that the Weaponsmith cannot make until very late. The most significant discrepancy falls along the Polearm line of weapons, where a Weaponsmith can make nothing better than a Lance for a Brawler until they hit
Master Weaponsmith.

Also, this list of weapons really means nothing. Although I listed the weapons in the order which the Brawler receives the Certs for them, there’s no guarantee that a weapon requiring a higher level skill is actually better than the one before it.

Choose your Weapon… (or what you tell a guy prior to shooting him in the back)

The first thing to realize when choosing a weapon is that all the numbers in a weapon’s stat block mean absolutely nothing in and of themselves. Those numbers are all relative. A weapon which reads 20-50 damage is not going to do 20-50 damage, but it will do more damage than a weapon which reads 10-30 damage.

The only use for these numbers is to compare weapons to each other, and to pick which one is right for your playing style! (More on playing style later)

The characteristic that just about everyone looks at is Damage. Let’s face it, you want your weapon to deal the most amount of damage possible in the shortest amount of time. However, how can you tell which weapon is the biggest damage dealer? Is it better to have higher Min damage, or higher Max damage? What about speed? I’m about to answer all of these questions.

A) Min Damage – A weapon’s minimum damage.
B) Max Damage – A weapon’s maximum damage.
C) Attack Speed – The time it takes to swing a weapon.

This can also be thought of as the attack DELAY for a weapon. A lower Attack Speed results in a FASTER weapon. A high Attack Speed is a SLOWER weapon. This
is very confusing to a lot of people, and it is important to grasp this concept before continuing further.

Now, these 3 numbers mean absolutely NOTHING by themselves. Comparing two Weapons according to Min Damage is useless if you aren’t taking into account
Max damage or Attack Speed. The same goes for trying to compare weapons based on Min-Max damage and leaving out Speed. A weapon which does 20-200 damage at 6.0 speed is worse than a weapon dealing 20-100 damage at 3.0 speed, even though it’s not evident at first glance. In order to accurately compare two weapons, you need to figure out each weapon’s DPS, or Damage Per Second. This is the rate at which a weapon deals damage…obviously, a higher DPS means a weapon is dealing more damage, quicker.

To calculate a weapon’s DPS, first find the average damage. You do this by adding a weapon’s Min damage, and its Max damage, then dividing by 2.

Average Damage = (Min + Max) / 2

Next, divide the Average Damage by the Attack Speed of the weapon, and you get DPS.

DPS = Average Damage / Attack Speed

Once you have this number, you can use it to compare two weapons. In fact, let’s go ahead and try this out on the two weapons I used as an example earlier.

Weapon 1 – 20-200 damage, 6.0 Attack speed
Average Damage = (20+200) /2 = 110
DPS = 110/6.0 = 18.33

Weapon 2 – 20-100 damage, 3.0 Attack speed
Average Damage = (20+100) /2 = 60
DPS = 60/3 = 20

As you can see, Weapon 2 has a higher DPS than Weapon 1, which means Weapon 2 will deal more damage, faster than Weapon 1.

The next thing to know when comparing weapons is “How much better is one weapon over another?” To understand this, you first need the DPS from both
weapons, then you figure out the percent difference between the two weapons. You do this by:

Subtract the DPS of Weapon 2 from Weapon 1, that’s the raw difference.

Difference = DPS2 – DPS1

Next, take the difference, divide by Weapon 1′s DPS, then multiply it by 100. That will give you the difference as a Percent, which is a better way of comparing weapons than simple raw difference. A negative percentage means Weapon 1 is better than Weapon 2, while a positive percentage means Weapon 2 is better than Weapon 1.

Percent Difference = (Difference / DPS1) * 100

Let’s go ahead and apply this to our previous example.
Weapon 1 DPS = 18.33
Weapon 2 DPS = 20

Difference = 20-18.33 = 1.67
Percent Difference = (1.67/18.33) * 100 = 9.11%

So, when comparing these two weapons, we can tell that Weapon 2 is roughly 10% better than Weapon 1.

So now that we have the ability to get DPS, and can calculate the percent difference between 2 weapons, we can focus on individual playing style, which is funny because there is no guide that I can write that can detail everything about all playing styles. What this guide provides is a method of comparing the damage between 2 weapons, so that you can choose the best damaging weapon that fits your playing style.

For example, if you are looking to spam Special Moves like crazy, you want to go for a weapon with low HAM costs, while still maintaining a high level of DPS. Hence, you could find 3 or 4 weapons with HAM costs you find adequate, then compare their DPSes, and pick the best one.

If you are in a group, and you need to deal as much damage as possible in 1 hit, then you can go with a “Charger’s” weapon, and find a weapon with the highest possible damage, and disregard the Speed.

If you are soloing, and need to take a large group of mobs, then you need to find the fastest weapon possible with the highest DPS.

There are many, many, many more styles of playing out there, and since I can’t declare myself an expert on them, this about the extent of my applicable advice. Hope this all helps you guys choose the absolute best weapons possible for you!
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All of the information here is gleaned from watching hours of combat spam. it gives me something to do while I cue up specials. I hear a lot of people wondering about armor, and most dont know how it works. I just figured it out recently as well.

Im going to break it down by stats found on all armor:

Durability

All armor has durability. Most of us have seen its effects. Armor in this game seems to decay in some relation to the damage it takes. The more damage, the faster it decays. As the armors get better, they increase in absorb, and also increasse in durability to make up for it. Use a repair kit to replenish durability, but be prepared to break it and have to buy a new piece.

Protection

All armor has a an AC of 1(as far as I can see, prove me wrong on this) It will absorb 50% of all damage not listed in vulnerabilities PLUS any percentage listed in Protection. Say if you have 10% kinetic(this is a value found on chitin). Damage dealt is 100, the armor will take 50 damage plus 5 more damage. It will say “Blah blah armor absorbs 55 damage” in the combat spam. The offshoot from this system is that small damages get lowered by less than large damages. Which is partly the reason I didnt notice before. For most hits, it will look like your armor absorbs 50%, but at higher damages the secondary number is in effect as well. At first I thought it was a rounding error

a. Special protection

all armors have a type of damage that they are best at absorbing(bone: energy, mabari: heat and blast). I believe this is also where layers will come into effect later(when they work).

b. Normal Protection

this is where the natural defense of the armor shows up. All of the damage types that the armor absorbs are listed here.

Vulnerability

These damage types are what the armor will Not absorb. You will be hit for full damage with these types of attacks. Even if your AC is 1. Some very rare damage types will fall into vulnerabilities, that I can only see players doing. Have you seen an electricity attack from an npc? I havent.

Encumbrance

a. Health This number is subtracted from the secondary stats. It will reduce Strength and Constitution by the given amount. Effected mostly by Chestplates.

b. Action Same as above, only for Quickness and stamina. Leggings and boots effect these areas the most

c. Mind Same as health only for focus and willpower. Helms effect this area greatly

Encumbrance will lower stats by a huge amount for good armor. Even experimented suits will have a large effect. I have a very rough suit of chitin right now, and my strength, constitution, quickness and willpower are dipping into the 100-200 range while my focus is like under 100. This will get better, but I would expect it to only halve, which is still significant(at least for a brawler)

Remember that both creatures and players have armor. The above rules still apply. If you have high enough creature knowledge, you can see all of the stats that matter on creatures. To help you decide what to attack and what not to, as well as pinpoint the vulnerabilities. I assume most people that hunt have no idea what the creatures armor is, and wonder why their lightning gun isnt hurting the creature, or their new blaster of armageddon is only tickling the giant sand beetle.

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